Question 1

How much tile do I need for my project?

Accepted Answer

Calculating tile needs requires measuring your space accurately and adding extra for cuts and breakage. Measure the area in square feet (length × width for floors and walls). For rectangular rooms, this is straightforward. For irregular shapes, divide into rectangles and add them together. Always add 10-15% extra for waste - standard straight-lay patterns need 10%, while diagonal patterns, herringbone, or complex designs need 15-20% extra. Example: A 10×12 bathroom floor = 120 sq ft. Add 15% waste = 138 sq ft needed. If tiles are 12×12 inches (1 sq ft each), order 138 tiles, rounded up to full boxes. For wall tile in showers, measure height × width of each wall, subtract large openings like windows, and add together. Don't forget to order extra for future repairs - discontinued tile patterns make matching impossible later. Most tile comes in boxes covering 10-20 sq ft each. Order full boxes only. Factor in tile size - larger tiles (12×24 or bigger) create less waste, while small mosaics have minimal cutting waste but more complex installation.

Question 2

What tile is best for bathrooms and showers?

Accepted Answer

Bathroom and shower tile must be water-resistant, slip-resistant, and durable. BEST CHOICES: Porcelain tile is ideal - highly water-resistant (absorbs <0.5% water), extremely durable, available in countless styles including wood-look and stone-look, costs $5-$15 per sq ft, lasts 50+ years. Ceramic tile is budget-friendly at $3-$8 per sq ft, adequately water-resistant (but seal grout), works for bathroom floors and walls (use porcelain in showers for better waterproofing). Natural stone (marble, slate, travertine) offers luxury appearance at $10-$30+ per sq ft, but requires regular sealing to prevent water damage and staining. Glass tile works beautifully for shower walls and accents ($15-$30 per sq ft), completely waterproof, easy to clean, but slippery for floors. FOR FLOORS: Choose textured or matte-finish tiles with slip resistance rating of COF 0.50+ (coefficient of friction). Avoid glossy tiles which become dangerously slippery when wet. Small tiles (2×2 or mosaic) provide more grout lines for traction. Large tiles (12×24+) have fewer grout lines to clean but may be more slippery. FOR SHOWER WALLS: Porcelain or ceramic in 4×12, 6×12, or 12×24 subway-style layouts are popular and practical. Small mosaics (1×1, hexagon) on shower floors provide excellent slip resistance. AVOID: Unsealed natural stone in showers (stains and water damage), very large slippery tiles on floors, porous materials that harbor mold.

Question 3

Can I install tile myself or should I hire a professional?

Accepted Answer

Tile installation is a skilled trade, but DIY is possible for simple projects with proper preparation. DIY-FRIENDLY PROJECTS: Small bathroom floors (under 50 sq ft) with simple straight-lay pattern, backsplashes (walls are easier than floors), laundry rooms or mudrooms where perfection isn't critical, outdoor paver patios (more forgiving than indoor tile). Potential savings: $5-$10 per sq ft in labor (save $500-$1,000 on a 100 sq ft bathroom floor). HIRE PROFESSIONAL FOR: Shower installations (waterproofing is critical - mistakes cause $5,000-$15,000 water damage), large rooms where lippage (uneven tiles) is very visible, diagonal or complex patterns (herringbone, chevron, intricate layouts), natural stone (requires special techniques and sealing), floors requiring extensive leveling. Professional installation costs $5-$10 per sq ft but includes warranty and expertise. DIY CONSIDERATIONS: Plan 3-4x longer than professionals (they tile 100 sq ft in 3-4 hours, DIYers need 12-16 hours). Essential tools cost $200-$500 (tile saw $100-$300, leveling system $50-$100, trowels, spacers, etc.). Learning curve shows - first few tiles often need redoing. Mistakes with thin-set, grout, or waterproofing are expensive to fix. RECOMMENDATION: DIY simple, small, low-stakes projects to learn. Hire professionals for showers, large spaces, and expensive materials where mistakes cost more than labor savings.

Question 4

How do I choose between ceramic and porcelain tile?

Accepted Answer

Ceramic and porcelain tiles differ in density, water resistance, and cost. PORCELAIN TILE: Made from refined clay fired at higher temperatures (2,200-2,500°F), extremely dense with <0.5% water absorption, harder and more durable than ceramic, resists cracking and chipping better, costs $5-$15 per sq ft ($8-$25 installed), ideal for high-traffic areas, outdoor use (frost-proof), and wet areas (showers, pool surrounds), through-body color means chips are less visible, more difficult to cut (requires wet saw), lasts 50+ years with minimal wear. CERAMIC TILE: Made from less refined clay fired at lower temperatures (1,800-2,000°F), more porous with 3-7% water absorption, softer and easier to cut, costs $3-$8 per sq ft ($5-$15 installed), suitable for low-traffic areas, interior walls, protected bathroom floors, glaze provides color/pattern but chips show white/tan body underneath, easier DIY cutting, lasts 20-30 years in appropriate applications. CHOOSE PORCELAIN FOR: Shower floors and walls, exterior applications, high-traffic commercial spaces, garage and workshop floors, areas exposed to freezing temperatures, when maximum durability matters. CHOOSE CERAMIC FOR: Bathroom walls (not shower floors), decorative backsplashes, low-traffic bedroom or closet floors, when budget is tight ($3-$5 per sq ft savings), when ease of cutting matters for DIY. COMPROMISE: Use porcelain floors with ceramic walls - combines durability where needed with cost savings where acceptable.

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How much tile do I need for my project?

What tile is best for bathrooms and showers?

Can I install tile myself or should I hire a professional?

How do I choose between ceramic and porcelain tile?